Obituary for Costume Designer Stephanie Collie 1963-2024
Stephanie Collie was a highly acclaimed, award-winning British costume designer of multiple television series and feature films throughout a long and distinguished career.
What made her beautiful design work so unique was how, on several occasions, it was able to transcend the screen and into popular mainstream fashion, none more so evident than with her work on the first series of PEAKY BLINDERS that created a popular, cultural revolution in British menswear.
Over the years, Stephanie worked with many of the world’s most prestigious leading talent including Antonio Banderas, Pierce Brosnan, Gerard Butler, Michael Caine, Henry Cavill, Jessica Chastain, Daniel Craig, Penélope Cruz, Morgan Freeman, Salma Hayek, Samuel L. Jackson, Milla Jovovich, Ben Kingsley, Keira Knightley, Diane Kruger, Martin Landau, Dua Lipa, Ewan McGregor, Cillian Murphy, Sam Neill, Thandiwe Newton, Gary Oldman, Chris Pine, Ryan Reynolds, Sam Rockwell, Jason Statham and Michelle Williams.
Born Stephanie Elizabeth Collie on 16th November 1963 in Warrington, Cheshire, England, Stephanie was the eldest of four daughters to Scottish parents Peter and Elizabeth Collie. After her sister Fiona was born the family moved from Warrington to St Albans in North London (where her siblings, Alison and Nicola were born) and finally to Cheltenham, Gloucestershire in 1972.
Stephanie was educated at Pates Grammar School for Girls, and after A-Levels completed an Arts foundation at Cheltenham Arts College. She then moved to London to undertake a degree at the London College of Fashion.
Stephanie had always been fascinated by film and television which was a passion she shared with her aunt Grace. Her creativity was born from her father, himself a talented artist, and her maternal grandmother who was a gifted seamstress.
Initially, Stephanie started work in the sewing room at the BBC with costume designer, Susan Coates, whom she had met at the London College of Fashion.
Following an introduction via Coates to David Parfitt who founded the Renaissance Theatre Company with Kenneth Branagh, Stephanie’s career developed from then onwards.
In the early 1990s, Stephanie worked as a wardrobe assistant to Branagh on MUCH ADO ABOUT NOTHING, and as a costume designer collaborating with Coates on PETER’S FRIENDS, also directed by Branagh.
It was 1998 that Stephanie’s design work made the first leap off the screen and into mainstream fashion with the British gangster feature film LOCK, STOCK AND TWO SMOKING BARRELS directed by Guy Ritchie and produced by Matthew Vaughn.
As remarked by Christopher Laverty at Clothes on Film: “Anyone old enough to remember when Lock, Stock arrived will remember just what an incredible influence its Mod inspired costumes had on the world of fashion. You could not pick up a men’s magazine of the time without seeing some guy in slim trousers and a jersey polo shirt. Stephanie Collie invented this look, thus providing one of the clearest examples of how costume design can transcend a movie and become something more. We would go so far as to say Stephanie Collie helped define an era.”
A few years later, working again with Vaughn on his directorial debut feature, LAYER CAKE Stephanie helped to create another talked about look for Daniel Craig’s lead character, reportedly pairing him with a dark brown, Alfred Dunhill leather jacket, a light grey short-sleeved t-shirt, medium-dark wash blue Levi’s denim jeans and a pair of R.M. Williams Chelsea boots – as covered by men’s fashion blog, BAMF Style.
Talking to Clothes on Film, Stephanie remarked: “I love dressing men. I love it. Right from the boys on Lock Stock – I’ve always just loved dressing men. They can look so good. And not even just vintage. I just think men have lost the art of dressing themselves. It’s all too casual. I just think that people don’t look in the mirror anymore and REALLY look at themselves.”
Both LOCK, STOCK and LAYER CAKE are significant in that each managed to achieve that rare success of becoming cult British cinema classics still revered to this day.
It was a return to the British criminal underworld, albeit in a different period of history that cemented Stephanie’s status as a world renowned costume designer. With the first series of Stephen Knight’s PEAKY BLINDERS set in 1919, Stephanie based the look of Thomas ‘Tommy’ Shelby (Cillian Murphy) and his Birmingham street gang on actual criminal mug shots of the period. The choice of white club collar shirts, tweed waistcoats, flat caps and baker boy hats ushered in a popular, cultural fashion revolution in contemporary British menswear that continues to resonate to this day.
For Tommy Shelby, Stephanie had suits made for Cillian Murphy by London-based tailor
Keith Watson. Over the years, so many people would write to her seeking advice on how to achieve the correct ‘PEAKY BLINDERS look’, so much so that she would often give masterclass cheat sheets on how to dress the part, as demonstrated here in an interview with Esquire:
“You need a good three piece suit. I’d suggest that you get the trousers narrowed and shortened…A good pair of lace up boots that go above your ankle…Pick the right six-piece section cap (baker boy), and I think you’d have a great outfit.”
Stephanie’s work on the first series of PEAKY BLINDERS won her a Royal Television Society Award for Best Costume Design.
Further credits of Stephanie’s included Michael Winterbottom’s THE LOOK OF LOVE with Steve Coogan, Anna Friel and Imogen Poots, Millennium Films’ LONDON HAS FALLEN starring Gerard Butler and Morgan Freeman, and its sequel, ANGEL HAS FALLEN, Patrick Hughes’ THE HITMAN’S BODYGUARD with Samuel L. Jackson, Ryan Reynolds and Salma Hayek, and its sequel, THE HITMAN’S WIFE’S BODYGUARD.
Stephanie always believed that it was extremely important to work closely with actors and the director to create a cohesive look for characters’ costumes. To her, the fun and joy of working on a project was the collaboration.
Director Susanna White who worked with Stephanie on Steven Knight’s scripted WOMAN WALKS AHEAD starring Jessica Chastain paid homage to her:
“Stephanie had a true originality about her sense of design – there was never anything received about what she did. Her work on Woman Walks Ahead was extraordinary – she went back to primary sources and found references for the clothing the Lakota people and Jessica Chastain wore which both made her costumes absolutely truthful to period detail yet gave the film a very contemporary spin. She told powerful stories through her work but like her personality her costumes never shouted “look at me” – she was always at pains to make sure that what she did fitted seamlessly into the aesthetic of the whole creative endeavour. No matter how stressful a day was she treated everything with her characteristic humour and grace. She will be greatly missed.”
The Spy thriller, THE 355 reunited Stephanie with Jessica Chastain (who would also produce), alongside a cast which also included Penélope Cruz and Diane Kruger.
Several other design credits of Stephanie’s included Coky Giedroyc’s HOW TO BUILD A GIRL with Beanie Feldstein, a further collaboration with Guy Ritchie on WRATH OF MAN starring Jason Statham and Matthew Vaughn’s ARGYLLE with Henry Cavill, Bryce Dallas Howard, Samuel L. Jackson, Dua Lipa and Sam Rockwell.
Stephanie’s last released project was Amazon’s period drama, MY LADY JANE.
It has often been noted by many who worked with Stephanie how extraordinary her sense of humour was, and how it could diffuse the most awkward of situations. Generous and loyal to her team and friends, she formed long lasting relationships on productions. Her dedication and passion for her craft kept her working even when she was extremely ill. Her last project, STUNT NUTS: THE MOVIE, another collaboration with producer Matthew Vaughn is currently in post-production. Stephanie was a member of the Costume Designers Guild.
Stephanie Collie passed away peacefully on 26th October 2024 at St Christopher’s Hospice in South London following a terminal cancer diagnosis six months’ earlier. Tragically, her beloved husband, director of photography Hubert Taczanowski (another cherished Casarotto client) died only in June of this year.
Stephanie has three surviving siblings, Fiona, Alison, and Nicola, and will also be remembered as an amazing and much-loved auntie to her nieces and nephews: Holly & Lucy, Amy & Sam, Connor & Ethan. She was also stepmother to Julia, Hubert Taczanowski’s daughter by his first marriage.
Stephanie was represented by Casarotto Ramsay & Associates and The Gersh Agency.
Since her passing, tributes have been pouring in:
(in alphabetical order)
Daniel Craig said: “Stephanie was responsible for so much of the look and feel of Layer Cake. She was a joy to work with and she will be deeply missed. My heart goes out to her family and friends.”
Samuel L. Jackson commented: “Stephanie was fuel for my characters. A wonderfully joyous & collaborative part of my process. I’ll miss her, is an understatement.”
Cillian Murphy remarked: “Stephanie was a ferocious talent. She invented the Peaky Blinders look and silhouette that has become iconic across the world. We will all miss her. RIP”
Ryan Reynolds said: “Deeply saddened to hear of Stephanie Collie’s passing. She was an accomplished and talented designer — but the world has also lost two precious natural resources: her wry wit and acerbic observational humour. My condolences to her family, colleagues and all who knew her. Rest well, Stephanie.”
Matthew Vaughn commented: “Stephanie and I worked together for 30 years and made seven films. She was always a beacon of good taste and positivity; and no matter how hard the task, she would never give up until it was accomplished to perfection.”
Picture credit: Hubert Taczanowski
Jon Creamer
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